Q&A - Yalla Shawarma

Sep. 2—Born and raised in Casablanca, Morocco, Abdel Malek Belghiti Alaoui, Zakaria Belghiti Alaoui and Youssef Lakhrif came to America accustomed to their families' and culture's home-cooked meals.

Not quite finding what they were seeking, and prompted to cook more at home during the COVID-19 pandemic, quality home cooking became a part of their lives and sparked professional dreams for the future.

Little did they know their first restaurant in Santa Fe, Tajine, would be shut down after a year due to landlord and licensing issues. The shutdown placed the trio in a tough spot, but ultimately they decided to stay in Santa Fe and make their dreams of serving Mediterranean-inspired food to the Santa Fe community work.

The group ended up starting a food truck named Yalla Shawarma; the latter refers to a popular Middle Eastern dish and the former means "let's go" in Moroccan Arabic. The chosen name was the group's way of moving past the previous venture and on to the next. The business opened one month ago and has gained quick popularity on Santa Fe social media food groups.

The truck's offerings include wraps, bowls, sandwiches, hummus, falafel, Moroccan salads and entrée plates, many of which feature the business's namesake vegan mushroom-based shawarma, which is infused with the spice blend Ras el Hanout.

The co-owners — two of whom are brothers by blood, though they say Lakhrif is like a third brother — say they are committed to cultivating Yalla! and making it a success in Santa Fe. The New Mexican recently corresponded with co-owner Abdel Malek Belghiti Alaoui to learn more about what's to come for Yalla.

This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.

Question: What inspired you to start a food truck, and how have your Mediterranean roots influenced the venture?

Answer: The inspiration to launch a food truck came from a mixture of necessity and deep-rooted passion. Following the unexpected shutdown of our restaurant, Tajine, which left us with substantial debt and a shattered dream right before what was supposed to be a grand opening, we found ourselves at a crossroads. With commercial restaurant spaces in Santa Fe being exceedingly limited, we faced a tough choice: relocate to a city with more opportunities or adapt and continue serving the community that feels like home, where my family and children have their roots.

Our decision to stay was driven by our Mediterranean heritage, which is woven into the very fabric of Yalla Shawarma. Growing up in Casablanca, a city that marries the culinary traditions of Europe, Africa and the Mediterranean, has deeply influenced our approach to food. This rich background infuses our truck's menu with distinctive Moroccan spices and cooking techniques, offering Santa Fe a taste of authentic Moroccan culture. Opting for a food truck allowed us to navigate the constraints of the limited spaces, with flexibility and lower overhead, enabling us to focus on what we do best — serving exceptional, flavor-rich meals to our beloved community. This venture is not just about staying operational; it's about thriving in the place we call home and continuing to dream big, despite the odds.

Question: What do you think are the biggest misconceptions people have about Mediterranean food?

Answer: One of the biggest misconceptions about Mediterranean food stems from what many people have experienced as "Mediterranean food" in America, which often differs significantly from the authentic dishes prepared in Mediterranean countries. In the U.S., these dishes frequently lack certain traditional ingredients and methods of preparation, resulting in a version that can be quite distant from the original. This has led to a narrow perception of Mediterranean cuisine, typically limited to a few popular items like hummus, falafel or gyros. Moreover, while Mediterranean cuisine is celebrated for its health benefits due to its focus on fresh produce, grains and healthy fats, the diversity and richness of the culinary traditions across different Mediterranean regions are often overlooked. This cuisine is not just about being healthy but also about embracing a variety of flavors and cooking traditions that vary from one Mediterranean country to another.

Question: What are some of the challenges that come with operating a food truck and how do you adapt traditional Mediterranean techniques to suit the mobile and smaller nature of a food truck?

Answer: One of the primary challenges of operating a food truck is the limited space, which makes it tough to offer a diverse menu that caters to all dietary preferences. Trying to maintain the rich variety of traditional Mediterranean cuisine in such a constrained environment requires creative adaptation. Thankfully, being a member of the Kitchen Table Santa Fe commercial kitchen, which is just a minute away from our food truck location, helps manage these limitations more effectively. This access allows us to prep and store a broader range of dishes, maintaining the diversity and quality of our offerings. It's all about making the most of what you have. If we could successfully operate Tajine in its previously hard-to-find and complex location, then we are well equipped to thrive in the dynamic and mobile setting of a food truck.

Question: Can you share the story behind one of your most popular dishes? What makes it special?

Answer: One of our most popular dishes at Yalla Shawarma is the "Shawarma Fries." This dish is a creative fusion that caters to the American palate's love for fries, enhanced with the rich flavors of Mediterranean cuisine. We designed it to be highly customizable — patrons can choose from chicken, beef or even a vegan shawarma topping. Additional layers of customization are available with a variety of toppings like our sprouted organic hummus and homemade spread sauces. What truly sets it apart and ties it to the local culture is the addition of Moroccan harissa and jalapeños, which resonate well with New Mexico's love for spicy and chile flavors. This dish is a testament to our innovative approach, combining traditional Mediterranean elements with local tastes to create a unique culinary experience that's both familiar and excitingly new.

Question: What's your favorite part of running a food truck, and how does it compare to running a traditional restaurant?

Answer: My favorite part of running a food truck is definitely the direct interaction with our customers. It's more personal; I get to see their reactions firsthand and receive immediate feedback, which is something harder to come by in a traditional restaurant setting where physical barriers can sometimes distance us from our patrons. Plus, the food truck's dynamic environment keeps every day exciting and unpredictable. This personal touch was harder to replicate in a traditional restaurant where the busyness and layout could sometimes create a buffer between us and our patrons. The dynamic nature of the food truck also keeps things exciting and fresh, pushing us to be more creative and adaptable.

On a lighter note, my least favorite part has to be enduring those sunny, 90-degree days combined with the heat from the grill and fryer going full blast and no AC — it's like cooking inside a volcano. But those sweltering days are almost behind us as we head into fall, and by next summer, we'll either have an AC unit installed or we might just melt right into the shawarma — becoming one with the menu in a way we never planned.

Question: What are the most important lessons you have learned about business and the food industry, from your early business ventures to now?

Answer: In business, I've learned the hard way the importance of caution and due diligence. Trusting people easily without concrete agreements led to many tough lessons. Always trust your gut — it's your most honest advisor. Handshakes feel good, but written agreements solidify trust and intentions, so always put things in writing to avoid greedy betrayals.

In the food industry, the learning curve is steep. Success tends to favor those who are inherently passionate about food. Over the years, I've realized the importance of not compromising on ingredient quality. While it might be tempting to cut costs, the quality of what we eat directly impacts our health. We're moving toward a future where more people understand that "you are what you eat." Charging a fair price for high-quality food isn't just good business — it's a commitment to the well-being of your customers. Ultimately, whether it's in business practices or food quality, the lesson is clear: Invest in integrity and quality now, or pay the price later.